Parmesan or Parmigiano-Reggiano is perhaps one of the oldest cheeses in Italy, if not a symbol of the food culture of Europe and the world. This cheese is recommended by nutritionists for its high nutritional value and by gourmets as the pinnacle of Italian cuisine. Its history and unique taste have passed through centuries.
Origin story
Cheese’s origin is largely unknown. It’s thought to have been an accident: Milk, probably from a goat or sheep, was forgotten in a bowl and became cheese. In primitive society, cheese making was a kind of communal ritual, performed under the authority of the head of the tribe. The Romans called such an individual caeser, hence the words caesarius and caesarius, casaro and the English word cheese. They were very fond of cheese, especially smoked cheese, well salted, perfect for long term storage. Techniques that are still used today are described by authors from the 2nd and 1st centuries BC. The Italian word cheese comes from the Greek formos – willow basket.
The tradition of producing this cheese goes back to medieval times, in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. Written sources take us back to the time of Pliny, who mentions the cheese when describing the typical pasta of the Cisalpine region. He mentions a dairy product with characteristics of modern Parmesan cheese, which had been brought from Luni, a small town in Liguria and Tuscany.
During the Middle Ages, the technique of making this cheese was perfected in the Benedictine monastic abbeys of the Padana plain, between the Apennines and the Po river.
Very soon, traders became interested in its shape and spread it from here to the rest of the world.
Parmesan in the world
At the time of Emilia’s greatest prosperity, Parmesan was highly prized. Merchants and owners of selected cattle took full advantage of this, as only quality milk was needed for production.
The first reference to the “grainy” cheese can be found in the “Decameron” by Giovanni Boccaccio (1349-1353), where, in the midst of poverty and disease, people dream of a “mountain of grated Parmesan”. Since then, and with the invention of the printing press (Gutenberg, 1440), there is much documentary evidence that Parmigiano-Reggiano was known not only in Italy but also abroad. In the 15th and 16th centuries Italy became the most beautiful and richest country in Europe, the number of foreign visitors increased, and when they returned home, they told about the strange dishes and, of course, about Parmesan.
It is not known exactly where the production of Parmesan cheese began. But specific documents go back to the 17th century, to the municipalities of San Polo, Bibbiano, Montecchio and Cavriago. It is near Reggio Emilia and Traveretolo and Montechiarugolo on the outskirts of Parma.
Competition for parmesan
During Italy’s darkest period – the 17th and 18th centuries – there was fierce and sometimes not entirely fair competition between cheese producers. The Duchy of Parma was in a particularly difficult position, facing strong competition from the products of Lombardy. From the 18th century, however, Reggio Emilia began to regain its primacy. Production expanded and there was a need to produce cheese not only of the highest quality, but also with certain uniform organoleptic and chemical characteristics, so that it would be more difficult to counterfeit and for the purpose of cooperation.
The Parmigiano-Reggiano brand was created in 1934, before the provinces of Parma and Reggio named their cheeses differently: “Parmesan” and “Grana Reggiano”. The representatives of the respective Chambers of Commerce could not agree on a single name. Only in 1934, when the Guardianship Community was founded, they decided to unite the two cheeses under the common name of Parmigiano-Reggiano. The center of the community became Reggio Emilia – as the center of production. In 1937, Mantua and the Po Valley, the province of Bologna and the left bank of the Reno River were added.
To cut the Parmesan, a special tool is used – a certain almond-shaped knife with a short, pointed blade: it can be used to cut even, clean slices from the head.
Tasting Tips for Parmesan
Parmesan is very tasty, delicate and not pungent. It is sweet in the beginning and becomes saltier and richer as it ages. An 18-month old cheese is marked with a lobster color, one older than 22 months with a silver color, and finally a very old cheese – older than 30 months – is marked with a golden color.
Parmesan can be eaten alone or with fresh fruit (pears, figs, grapes or kiwi), dried fruit, acacia honey or strawberry blossom. However, we think the best accompaniment is a few drops of traditional balsamic vinegar from Modena or Reggio Emilia.
Thanks to its versatility, this cheese is an integral part of Italian cuisine and can diversify any dish.These include soups, meat dishes, puddings, sauces, salads and, of course, pasta and rice.As for wines, a not too old Montalcino would be the perfect choice.
To cut the Parmesan, a special tool is used – a certain almond-shaped knife with a short, pointed blade: it can be used to cut even, clean slices from the head.A few words about storage: in the refrigerator at a temperature of 4-8°C in a special cheese container, Parmesan can be stored for quite a long time.
Parmesan: quality and origin
The Parmesan Community controls the quality of this splendid product, following the strictest rules of production and preventing the possibility of counterfeiting. Before buying Parmesan, pay attention to the label: it must be on every package, as it is a guarantee of authenticity.Genuine mature cheese is aged for at least 12 months. According to the new rules, if it is less than this period, there are “X” marks on the crust.But even such cheese is not bad – it can be used with pasta.
Below the oval, there should be a registration number that tells you which cheese factory produced it – it is unique, so it is impossible to verify its authenticity. The only guarantee is to trust the retailer from whom you buy the cheese.
Despite the activities of the Custodial Community, the counterfeiting of this national treasure is on the rise, which is certainly detrimental to Italian gastronomic culture.
Most of the fakes end up abroad under other names such as Parmesan, Parmetta, Reggianito. There are disputes every day. At least we remember the Berlin Court of Appeal in 2008, where a German company was banned from producing a product under the name of Parmigiano. Bio-Parmesan or Parmesan and similar in shape to the original Parmigiano-Reggiano.
And there are many such cases.
The latest innovations
To end on a positive note, let’s look at the latest news. The European Union approved new changes to the requirement that Parmigiano-Reggiano be packaged within the region of production. This should improve safety as the product moves from producer to consumer. In addition, dairy cows imported from abroad must be quarantined for four months before their milk is used to make cheese.During this time, the animals are fed according to the rules of the Community of Care.
We are on the right track because this activity protects the brand, history and tradition and ensures that only authentic products with the “Made in Italy” label end up on tables around the world.
